Gunpowder Children

Photo Source:  Child Labor Photographs

In rural Guatemala, children are expected to work - or they and their families do not eat. Firecracker manufacturing offers the highest pay for the children.  The work is repetitive, crippling, and extremely dangerous. Accidents and fatalities occur weekly.  A careless bump against a gunpowder-filled circle, could cause it to explode, and kill all the children in the work area.  Sparks are another danger and require extreme diligence (life Online).  

Children begin to manufacture firecrackers at the age of 6.  When demand for firecrackers is high, the children quit going to school in order to work longer hours.  9.9% of the boys and 5.5% of the girls  never return to school once the demand ebbs (IPEC).  A strip of firecrackers requires 3 days to manufacture.  Middlemen pay fifty cents per completed strip. Then they re-sell them for 12 times that amount.  There is no wage regulation within the firecracker industry.  Nor are there any health and safety codes.  

There are solutions being put forth to end, or at least reduce, the safety hazards faced by the children.  One program extends new business credit to families in exchange for promises to keep the children in school.  Another is working to build a safer firecracker factory.  At present, there are 5,000 children working in the Guatemalan firecracker industry.  

Indigenous Radio

Photo Source:  Esperanza Project

In the Peace Accords of 1996, the indigenous people of Guatemala were promised access to local radio frequencies.  Only commercial or government-run radio stations are currently allowable under Guatemalan law.  However, the commercial radio frequencies are sold at prices well beyond the financial resources of the Maya (Esperanza Project).  As a result, some Mayan individuals have set-up their own pirate radio stations.               

The radio programs offered on the stations typically include news stories, educational content, health information, and traditional Mayan music.  These programs are broadcast in 23 indigenous languages. There are 200+ Mayan stations operating illegally in Guatemala. Police are in the process of confiscating their equipment and shutting them down (Cultural Survival).  The broadcasters are punished with fines of $10,000 - $100,000 and up to 6 years in prison (Sound As a Dollar?).  It is not the illegality of the stations, nor the content of the programs, that ‘threaten’ the ruling power.  Rather, it is the underlying message that Mayan culture survives - despite massive attempts to eradicate it.

By denying access to radio frequencies and imposing steep penalties for transgressors, the Guatemalan government is attempting to silence the voice of the Maya.  The international community has taken note of this issue. Cultural Survival.Org has personally taken on the challenge of securing radio rights for the Maya.  They have organized the radio stations, drafted legislation, and conducted workshops with the broadcasters to help them run better quality, more efficient, broadcasting enterprises.  Anyone desiring to assist with the indigenous radio project should contact  Cultural Survival for more information.  For a fuller discussion of the issue of Maya radio access, please read Victoria Henderson’s master’s thesis, Sound As a Dollar?.

The Black Christ

Photo Source: Guatemala Guides

In the 1500’s, the people of Esquipulas desired to have a crucifix in their church.  Upon hearing of their desire, the Bishop of Antigua commissioned an artist to make a crucifix for them.  When it was completed, the villagers went to fetch it.  They built a platform on which to carry it back to Esquipulas.  As they walked through the countryside, the holy image drew hundreds of admirers.  Once in Esquipulas, the crucifix was placed in a small church. A pilgrim from Mexico prayed at the feet of crucifix, and was healed from his illness. The good news traveled fast.  Thousands of pilgrims came to view the crucifix. They brought candles for their relatives who could not make the journey.  Inside the church, the pilgrims burned their candles, along with a resinous incense. The smoke darkened the wooden crucifix. People began to call it the Black Christ (Writings of Scott Thomas).

The Archbishop of Guatemala made a pilgrimage to the Black Christ in the 18th century.   He was inspired to make the church bigger.  Then the popes began to visit. Pope John XXIII in 1961 and Pope John Paul II in 1996.  Pope John Paul II was moved by the pilgrimage experience and wrote about it here. The seed for the 1996 Guatemalan Peace Accords, which ended the Civil War, were drawn up in the holy town of Esquipulas (Lonely Planet). 

Today, thousands of people undertake a pilgrimage to Esquipulas during the year.  Many arrive in traditional clothing.  They sleep on the streets and sell their wares in colorful markets.  They spend hours standing in line, just to have a couple of minutes with the Black Christ.  Then they return home with tablets of healing clay, “tierra santo” and await their next pilgrimage opportunity. 

Brutalization of Indigenous Women

Photo Source:  BBC News

Amnesty International has reported that 685 women were brutally tortured and murdered in Guatemala in the year 2010.  Less than 4% of these cases are likely to result in convictions (BBC News). The international human-rights community has demanded that Guatemalan authorities investigate these crimes and prosecute those responsible.  Guatemalan authorities have shown little inclination to pursue the perpetrators and seem to lack the basic skills needed for the investigative work (North American Congress on Latin America).

Opinions differ greatly as to the cause of the violence. Some say that Guatemalan soldiers developed an appetite for rape and torture during the Civil War.  Ex-soldiers are thought to indulge this appetite by abducting and brutalizing indigenous women. It has been further suggested that the Guatemalan government secretly condones the brutality as a method of social control upon the indigenous population. Others say that the abducted women are involved in gangs or drugs and so deserve their fate. Indeed, a few of the victims have been shown to be thus involved (NACLA).

Earlier reports by Amnesty International indicate that there is an acute level of sexual violence within the homes of Guatemala.  Exasperating the domestic situation is the Guatemalan legal system that has long treated domestic violence as a minor disturbance.  The continuing lack of action by the authorities sends the message that violence against women is acceptable in Guatemala (BBC News). 

Lienzo de Quauhquechollan

Photo Source:  Quauhquechollan

The Lienzo de Quauhquechollan is a pictographic map that chronicles the conquest of Guatemala.  It is unique in that it reflects the point of view of the indigenous conquerors.  The Quauhquecholteca who painted the story map, were from Central  Mexico.  They had been unhappy under Aztec rule and allied themselves with the Spanish Conquistadors when they arrived.   

The Quauhquecholteca began painting the 8’ X 10’ cloth in 1530 while in the midst of their military campaign against the Maya.  The painted symbols on the cloth represented what was important to them during their journey through Guatemala.  Geographic landmarks, towns, events, activities, and  even cultural concepts had their own unique symbols.  The Quauhquecholteca often used lienzos as storyboards for oral presentations and public performances. 

New interpretations of the Lienzo de Quauhquechollan by Dutch archaeologist Florine Asselbergs, suggest that the purpose of this Lienzo was to document the active role of the Quauhquecholteca in the conquest of Guatemala; and to support their claim for the later spoils of that conquest.  

Asselbergs also suggests that is it was Jorge de Alvarado, and not his brother Pedro, who actually led the Spaniards against the Maya. 

The process of the digital restoration of the Lienzo is fascinating.  Rather than explain each step, it is more effective to simply refer the reader to the 10 minute video presentation of the process at Quauhquechollan. 

The Quauhquechollan website is the repository of the Lienzo de Quauhquechollan research that was undertaken by the Universidad Francisco Marroguin in Guatemala. It is an interesting website that invites further exploration. Information and images for this post were obtained from Quauhquechollan and its publications. A special thanks goes out to reader Aschrei for sharing the Quauhquechollan resource.

Quetzal Bird

Photo Source:  El Mundo Hispano

The Maya have a legend about Quetzal Bird.  They say he was once a shabby-looking creature, with no future prospects.  However, Quetzal Bird was an ambitious and intelligent sort of fellow.  One day, he seized upon a clever idea and tricked Roadrunner into handing over his brilliant feathers.  At the opportune moment, Quetzal Bird displayed his newly acquired plumage and won the title of King of Birds. ( full version of the story at First People) 

The Quetzal bird has long held a lofty position in the Maya world.  He is said to represent the God of the Air. (Helium) The Maya considered it a crime to kill a Quetzal bird, especially since the feathers could be taken without killing him.  These feathers were highly valuable and worth more than gold. (National Geographic News) The Maya elite wore the feathers to mark their wealth and status. 

Today, the Quetzal bird is immortalized as the national bird of Guatemala.  His image appears on the Guatemalan flag and his name represents the unit of Guatemalan currency. (Guatemalan Quetzal)

Image Source:  Maps of the World

There is some evidence that the Maya built their architecture with an awareness of acoustics.  Clapping you hands at the pyramid of Chichen Itza is said to resemble the calls of the Quetzal bird. 

Compare the video to this audio clip from JungleWalk of a real Quetzal bird. 

A photograph can not do justice to the luminescence of the Quetzal plumage. See the video at The Internet Bird Collection.  The male Quetzal appears around the 30 second mark. 

Music of Guatemala

Photo Source:  TravelPod

The music of Guatemala is a blend of influences from the indigenous Maya and Xinca, the coastal Garifuna, and the Europeans.  Like any modern nation, Guatemala has a wide diversity of music styles; from Indigenous through Classical to Hip Hop.  This post will highlight the indigenous and folk music of Guatemala. 


The marimba (a percussion instrument) is fantastically popular in Guatemala and has been elevated to the status of national instrument.  It is uniquely constructed from native Hormigo wood that gows only in the local forests.  The origin of this instrument is steeped in controversy (Bella Online) and reflects the  ongoing ethnic strife that is Guatemala.  Here are two clips of marimba music in Guatemala. 

The following clip is a fantastic re-creation of traditional Mayan instruments by Rey Ortega. Near the end of the clip is a flute played with fire and another constructed from a human skull. 

This next clip is a percussion and wind composition.  It is accompanied by a slide show of the Mayan archaeological ruins. 

The final clip is a popular composition that is heard throughout Latin America.  This particular group is from Guatemala

Conquest, Colonization, & Slavery

Photo source:  Pedro de Alvarado

In 1523, Spanish Conquistador, Pedro de Alvarado, conducted a brutal military expedition against the independent kingdoms of Guatemala.  With 120 horsemen, 300 foot soldiers, and an alliance with the Cakchiquel natives, Alvarado easily defeated the Maya defenses. One after another, he burned the kingdoms to the ground and enslaved the Maya people. (History of Guatemala)

Pedro de Alvarado was an exceeding cruel man. His inhumanity has been recorded in the Lienzo de Quauhquechollan.  This document contains numerous instances in which he burned natives alive or threw them to his dogs. For his success, Alvarado was appointed governor of Guatemala in 1527 by Charles I of Spain.  He carried the title until his death in 1541.   (Pedro de Alvarado)

After the Conquest, the Spaniards built elaborate churches with stones taken from the ruined Mayan temples. (Destination 360) They divided up the land and rewarded themselves with encomiendas.  These large, land-holdings included native villages and towns.  It was expected that the new landowners would offer religious education to the natives.  In actuality, the encomiendas were places of legalized slavery. (Latin American History) 

Five hundred years later, the situation is little improved. Human trafficking and child kidnapping are thriving economic activities in Guatemala.  Rainforest areas are now under the control of drug gangs.  And in December 2010, the Guatemalan government declared a state of siege in the Peten region. Two different perspectives of this recent development can be viewed at (BBC News)  and at (Intercontinental Cry) 

The Basics

Photo from Country Reports

Guatemala is one of the most beautiful countries in Central America.  It is a mountainous land with active volcanoes, lush rain forests, and 249 miles of coastline.  At 13,816 feet, Volcan Tajumulco is the highest peak in Central America.  Eco-tourists are drawn to Guatemala's colorful orchids and birds.  Other tourists come to walk among the fantastic, archaeological ruins of the Maya. 


The descendants of the ancient Maya continue to live in the area of their homeland.  They constitute 40.6% of the present population of Guatemala.  The other 59.4% including the Mestizos and Europeans.  At 14.3 million, Guatemala is the most populous country in Central America.  Spanish is the official language, but at least 23 indigenous languages are spoken within the republic.  The Maya maintain a strong presence in the country.  Many still wear traditional Mayan clothing and sell handcrafted items in colorful markets.  


For all its beauty and achievements of the past, Guatemala is a country facing extreme challenges.  Nearly 200,000 people were slaughtered during the recent civil war (1960-1996).  Another 50,000 people remain unaccounted for.  The poverty rate hovers at 56% and breeds violence and crime.  Guatemala has the lowest life expectancy rate (68 years) in Latin America and the highest fertility rate (3.36 children/woman).  Only 69% of the population is literate.  These are grim statistics to overcome.  During the next several months, this blog will cover these issues and more. (Statistics obtained from BBC News and CIA World Fact Book)

Why Guatemala?

Photo from Eagle Visions

I have always felt a fondness for the Maya people and their rainforest home.  I marvel at their resiliency and the long survival of their culture.  In this blog, I will be writing about the people and places of Guatemala.  I also hope to highlight the work of forensic anthropologists in the post-war period.